Leeks play a major part in two Malaysian-inspired dishes: they melt into coconut in a marvellous chicken curry, and pair perfectly with peas in crunchy potato croquettes
Since moving from Malaysia to London more than a decade ago, I’ve slowly brought leeks into my everyday cooking. Their gentle sweetness reminds me of banana shallots, and I love how they melt into this chicken gulai. Bergedil (or begedil or perkedel) have always been one of my favourite street-food snacks, and are found at stalls across Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. In Malay cooking, they’re often made using mashed potato that’s mixed with minced meat, shaped and fried, but my version uses leeks, frozen peas and leftover herbs, plus an orange, chilli and yoghurt dip.
Leek, coconut and lime leaf chicken gulai
I grew up knowing gulai as its own thing: coconut leads, while in what we call curry, or kari, spices take centre stage. For me, its richness carries a story beyond flavour, especially when spooned generously over rice. Prep 15 min Marinate 15 min Cook 45 min Serves 3-4
1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tsp salt ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tbsp mild or hot curry powder 1 tbsp vegetable oil 6-8 skin-on bone-in chicken thighs (1kg) Steamed white rice, to serve
For the gulai 1 leek (100g), trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced 2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 5-8 fresh or frozen makrut lime leaves, roughly torn 3-4 bird’s eye chillies, 1 chopped, the rest lightly bashed ½ tbsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp tamarind paste 200ml coconut cream 1 large floury potato (200g), cut into wedges Salt and black pepper
In a large bowl, mix the ground coriander, salt, turmeric, curry powder and oil. Add the chicken, massage thoroughly to coat, then leave to marinate for 10-15 minutes.
Put a large, nonstick pan on a medium heat. Lay in the chicken skin side down and leave to cook undisturbed for about seven minutes, until the skin is golden. Turn and cook for another three minutes, then transfer to a rack or plate.
Pour 250ml water into the bowl used to marinate the chicken, and scrape up any remaining spices and marinade.
Using the same pan and the rendered chicken fat, saute the leek, ginger, lime leaves and the chopped and bashed chillies for three to five minutes, until the leek has softened; add a splash of water if the mix seems too dry.
Carefully pour in the reserved marinade water, then stir in the turmeric, tamarind paste and coconut cream, and bring to a gentle simmer. Return the chicken to the pan, add the potato wedges, turn down the heat to low and cover the pan. Leave to cook gently for 15-20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the potatoes are tender.
Season to taste, then spoon the chicken, potatoes and plenty of the gulai over steamed white rice.
Leek and pea bergedil with orange chilli dip
These are comforting and child-friendly when served on their own, but the dip gives them a kick for the adults. I love serving them with noodles or fried rice, and they freeze beautifully, too.
Prep 15 min Cook 45 min Makes 15, to serve 5-7 3 large floury potatoes (650g), halved and unpeeled 1 tsp salt, plus extra for cooking the potatoes Vegetable oil 2 leeks (200g), trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced 200g frozen peas 10g fresh coriander, finely chopped 10g fresh mint, finely chopped 5g fresh dill, finely chopped 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper Noodles or rice, to serve (optional)
To fry 200-400ml vegetable oil 3 tbsp cornflour 2 large eggs, beaten
For the orange chilli dip 80ml fresh orange juice with pulp 2 tbsp sweet soy sauce 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 bird’s eye chilli 5g fresh coriander 2 tbsp greek yoghurt
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with a litre of salted water and bring to a boil. Cook for 10–15 minutes, until fork-tender.
Meanwhile, put two tablespoons of oil in a deep frying pan on a medium heat, add the leeks and cook for three to five minutes, until softened with lightly browned edges. Turn off the heat and leave to cool slightly. Reserve about 60g (three tablespoons) of the fried leeks, then wipe the pan clean.
Drain the potatoes, return them to the saucepan and mash smooth. Add the cooked leeks, peas, coriander, mint and dill, then mix well and season.
Using clean hands, take about 50g of the mix, roll it into a ball, then gently flatten between your palms to form a small patty. Repeat with the remaining mix and arrange on a tray. Once completely cool, the bergedil can be frozen for up to two months; defrost thoroughly in the fridge before frying.
Pour the oil into the same deep frying pan to a depth of about 2cm, then, on a medium heat, bring it up to 180C/350F (if you don’t have a thermometer, dip the handle of a wooden spoon into the oil – if small bubbles form around it, the oil is ready). Put the cornflour and beaten eggs into separate bowls. Lightly coat each bergedil in cornflour, shake off any excess, then dip into the egg bowl. Fry the bergedil, in batches of four to five to avoid overcrowding, for two to three minutes, turning halfway, until evenly golden. Drain on kitchen paper and fry the remaining bergedil.
For the dip, put the orange juice, soy sauce, garlic, chilli, coriander and reserved fried leeks in a food processor and blend smooth. Stir through the yoghurt and season with salt, if need be.
Arrange the warm bergedil on a platter and serve with noodles or rice, if you like and with the dip alongside.
Ranie Saidi is the author of The Malay Cook: Everyday Malaysian Recipes from Grandma’s Kitchen to Mine, is published by Ryland Peters & Small at £25. To order a copy for £22.50, go to guardianbookshop.com
